bringing out the big guns, marines, chaos and superheavies

[sprugly]

Hi all,
It's about time I started a new blog, the last one tailed off a bit and got a bit big and unwieldy. If you've not seen it tho please give it a look, there's a lot of pics of cool stuff there if I do say so myself!

But, onwards and upwards.

I have recently bought a greater brass scorpion and a warhound titan. These will be my next 2 models to build and paint, or at least that's the plan.

However I have a couple of models to finish first, namely a stormtalon and a captain. Both are nearly done, the stormtalon needing just the base finishing.

So I thought id show the talon off first.







As you can see I've lengthened the tail and fitted the assault cannons right up in the body of the thing. Looks much more streamlined like this and not so stubby! The weapon pods are also magnetized so I can swap them out between games.

Cheers all, hope you like it.

Sprugly

[fuzzbuket]

nice i like the assault cannons

[sprugly]

Hi all,

First up today I have taken a couple of better pics of the talon, including the now finished base.

[sprugly]

But that's nothing really new, what I have got is my new marine captain. Ryu Son, captain if the scarlet dragons 3rd company, with magnetized jump pack and backpack!







The idea being that I can use him as a normal captain with jump pack or use him as a korroso khan proxy if I fancy for a change
.
Next up, will be the brass scorpion. He's had his bath and is ready to be built, though I snapped a couple of bits doing it! So much for the resin bending easily in warm water!



Sprugly

[SotonShades]

Yeh, the term 'warm is fairly ambiguous. If the water is warm enough to scald your fingers, then the resin will bend easilly :P Even then you want to give it a good few moments to let the bit warm through to the core to be pliable, and you'll need to dump it into cold water quickly once you've bent it to the shape you want/it should be to stop it slowly curling back!

The Captain looks fairly good, though the lack of decoration on the shoulder pads is a little dissappointing, especially with the quality of the work on the sword and shield.

[sprugly]

You know what, you're right about the pads. I've been so eager to get to the scorpion I forgot all about them, not even putting on the dragon symbol. It's something ill have to go back and do, they can't stay that bare can they! Lol
Also, thanks for the tips on resin work, the biggest resin kit I've done so far was the contemptor. The other thing I was thinking about is glue for the beast, would superglue be enough or do you recommend anything else?
Sprugly

[Toaster36]

Superglue? Probably will be enough.

...Unless you plan on playing with it, then I'd recommend pins, plenty of pins.

[SotonShades]

As Toaster said, superglue could be enough. If you can get nice, neat close joins with no gaps (not easy on a lot of FW models, especially of this size and complexity) and then rough them up slightly with a knife or file to give the glue more surface area to adhere and bond to, then yes it will work. I'ts been absolutely fin on my Thunderbolt, Minotaur and Macharius Vulcan (the latter being refurbished after someone else had bought it, put it together badle and it had started falling apart because they had left huge gaps around the glue.) If done properly, the glue join will actually be stronger than the resin, so your model should never actually break on the joins between componants. Unfortunately, that can have other, less desirable ramifications.

If you do have gaps, filling them properly with green stuff (or your modelling putty of choice) will massively help reduce the stress on the join, which will make it less likely to snap. So filling the gaps isn't just to make the model look nicer!

Toaster probably has the best solution though. Pinning really can ensure a good, solid join that will be survavable, especially against shear forces (usually the ones applied when big modells get transported, or when the joint is at an unusual angle relative to the way the load is transfered across it) which are more often than not the cause of breakages.

Combine all three (close-roughed joins, green stuff and pinning) should give you a model that won't break, barring abuse. Afterall, dropping anything off the top shelf of a display cabinet will generally snap something. Just ask my Thunderbolt; that has bounced down the stairs more times than any FW model ever deserves too. So far it has never broken at a componant joint though...

[sprugly]

Thanks for the tips guys, i guess I'll be getting the drill out then. Bin a while since I had to do any amount of pinning but I really dont want this guy falling apart on me.

Sprugly

[fuzzbuket]

wow i love that captain! the sword and shield are fantastic!