Blackadder's Lucius Pattern Reaver

[Blackadder]

A Tale of Three Titans

In designing the three titans there appears to be great similarity regarding the carapace between the Mars Reaver and the Mars Warhound. Both are designed with the long axis fore and aft the Reaver carapace being almost exactly a scaled up version of the Warhound.

The Warlord having the long axis side to side the same as the imperial titans so in essence there are only two vehicle classes in the Titan hierarchy.

If the Mars Reaver/Warhound class is so similar in aspect it stands to reason the the Lucius versions should also display this similarity. Based on this premise the 'Epic' Reaver is an anomaly.

I shall base my version on this rational and see where it takes me.

This is the fun part of not having a plan!..................?

[Blackadder]

Vacation:

The Blackadder is back from vacation with a few new ideas on how to proceed with the armour but first a bit of technique training might be beneficial for budding scratch builders.

While on vacation I had a chance to read some of the blogs written about the models I have built and the one point that stands out is my seeming precision of fitting seams together. Of course this is utter hogwash as my seams leave much to be desired in my estimation and only I know where the grievous mistakes lie and how many times I have had to scrap work and redo various pieces. I have a box full of failed constructions.

But anyway I gave some thought on how I manage to get decent fitting pieces and it came down to sanding blocks and files.

Now on various other threads I alluded to filing and sanding to fit but I never expounded on a basic tool that I use although it is present in a lot of photos I present because it also serves so well as a support when presenting a partially finished part. That tool is a common sanding block.

I have used sanding blocks for many years starting when I was rather young and building balsa model aircraft. balsa is an extremely soft wood and cuts and shapes like cheese with the proper tools much the same as styrene.

The basic block I make is rectangular 5/4 inch by 2 & 5/8 inch pine (29 by 68 MM). The blocks I use are 5 and 1/2 inches long (140 MM) and almost perfectly squared sides and edges for a reason that will be clear in a moment.

The reason I chose those dimensions is that I can get two full blocks of sandpaper out of a single sheet of 8 1/2 by 11 standard paper with very little waste.

[url]http://www.3m.com/product/information/Aluminum-Oxide-Sandpaper.html[/url]

BTW 5/4 lumber is an industry standard finished lumber for fine woodwork such as panel doors and the like and most woodworking shops have lots of scrap available. I got mine from some panel doors I found in the trash.

Anyway once I established the blocks were 'true' I covered the blocks with double-back adhesive tape:

[url]http://www.lowes.com/pd_15140-14510-1397992_4294715659__?productId=3277853&Ns=p_produc t_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_pro duct_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=[/url]

used for securing carpet. I use that in lieu glue to secure the sand paper to the block so its easier to remove and replace without changing the dimensions of the block. I have had a roll for many years and nowhere near using it up so the stuff I have probably isn't even sold any more.

I make(d) blocks of fine, medium and coarse but I primarily use the coarse block. I have six blocks all totaled which are older than some of you reading this......

Enough about tape.

Cut your sheet of paper in half and carefully wrap it around the adhesived block so the corners and edges are straight and true and cut off what little excess there is and you will have a sanding tool that will last for years.

Any questions?


--
E. Blackadder

[Blackadder]

Front Carapace and Neckshield:

There is fortunately a rectangular vent protruding from the front panel onto which I can affix my front bulkhead panel so the main carapace has a decent front anchor point.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/KdCyxPW.jpg[/url]


The front panel I intend to drill and tap so it will always be removable even when the model is completed. The reason for that is to tighten the neck joint assembly for I intend to design a flexible neck joint coupling to allow the the head to move. I already have the particulars ensconced in my brain so the actual execution is just grunt work. I'll cover this idea when we come to it in the build.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/Zps1Yu5.jpg[/url]


There is on the FW model a double neck hood which I may leave out because the redesigned head shape will need that extra space especially since it will be movable. I see no purpose for the extra hood anyway although it would be quite simple to replicate in a Lucius pattern. My main concern is to not too obviously replicate the Warhound armour but to make the Reaver unique in design but also relatable to the other Lucius titans.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/MakUqBK.jpg[/url]

[Blackadder]

Reaver Asymmetry:

The asymmetry of this model is mind boggling, I suppose it's all right for the compounded curves of the Mars pattern but the Lucius requires square and true edges and panels for its faceted armour. The hull varies 1.0 to 2.0 MM between sides.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/sD58Dil.jp[/url]


The inner surface of the carapace will have to be trued before the outer surface is applied.

Again where there are gaps between the hull carapace and the shoulder armour on the Mars the Lucius will have continuity in that the hull and shoulders will be joined and most probably a single unit. Not a problem but an interesting exercise.

Fortunately the shoulder mounts display very little Mars filigree so I should be able to get away with out replicating them in styrene. As with the Warhound the basic shoulder and legs are the same on both the Mars and Lucius.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/U7tTbOf.jpg[/url]


It may be worthy of note the liberal use of rubber bands to hold the components together during this construction and fitting stage. Apart from the styrene work nothing is glued and all the parts are fitted to a fraction of an millimeter gap/clearance tolerance. It is worth the small added effort and time to achieve a professional looking assembly. The big failing I find with assembled (derelict) Baneblades I purchase on Ebay are the huge gaps between components usually filled with putty or glue.

[Blackadder]

Finally a Neck Armour I Can Live With:

After much trial and error I have come up with a hood design that seems workable.

Naturally the side angles need to be pared down but the overall concept mimics the Mars shape but also the Lucius motif. What is seen here is the underside skin of the shield; the exterior surface will give thickness to the armour.

Something as simple as this design should have been obvious to me but I was working under the constraints that the armour must not appear too bulky. Also since I am eliminating the hidden neck armour (The Hull Carapace will be removable in one piece) I had to allow for the hidden neck armour side flanges. This will become more apparent once the entire interior level of the hull carapace is completed.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/yVKlSi6.jpg[/url]


In this top view note the original measurements and the fillet pieces necessary to amend the hood to its final configuration.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/HQDwBLl.jpg[/url]


Finally, a shot of the sub-structure that will flesh out the original contours to mount the sub hood assembly components I shall be retaining.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/12izksk.jpg[/url]


I still haven't worked out these details.

[Blackadder]

The Hull Carapace Ad Nauseam:

Once more into the breach dear friends, working the Mars carapace into a viable Lucius pattern without making it look too much like an L. Pattern Warhound takes a bit of doing.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/4bxhBgE.jpg[/url]


[url]http://i.imgur.com/OCWK7hm.jpg[/url]


I've decided to try some vents on either side of the centerline, that might be fun. I need something to break the line so it doesn't ape the Mars carapace too closely but isn't the truncated box on the Warhound's back.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/0XUKzhJ.jpg[/url]


Anyway I seem to have a lot of space left above the hull compartment and the Void generators won't conflict with anything I have built thus far.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/xhzkDud.jpg[/url]

[Blackadder]

Reaver Carapace and Hood Extension

So the Reaver has a hood the fairs into the main hull carapace and for some reason has a second hood beneath that hood.

Well initially I thought to eliminate the lower hood but I found I cannot as it projects rearward beyond the main hood which seemed irreconcilable until I hit on a solution unfortunately at 02:30 AM. awakening with that epiphany I lost sleep for a good portion of the rest of the night.

I shall build an partial under-hood and secure the exterior hood to the under-hood and thereby eliminating the excessive construction that would bulk up the carapace too much, simple Huh! Well it took two days for me to come up with the solution.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/K4uUXVw.jpg[/url]


Shown here is the under-hood with the side flanges in place and cut at what I hope will be the angles and sizes but I won't know that until I build the exterior hood and carapace.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/OR84Ubk.jpg[/url]


The only plus on this construction is that it doesn't follow the Reaver model from Dawn of War pattern but still maintains the Reaver configuration.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/HSx4HSo.jpg[/url]


The inner hood extends 45 MM from the front hull and the external will extend 60 MM the same as the Mars design.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/LZDrV7y.jpg[/url]


So far it's working.

[Blackadder]

Thanks,

Void Generator Housings:

Here is where we get into the nitty-gritty of this project.

I have to duplicate the Void Generator housings instead of just covering them with styrene else-wise they will be too bulky looking.
[url]http://i.imgur.com/X7icEXH.jpg[/url]


Fortunately there is an inner flange that locks the generators into place in the model so duplicating the area that locks behind the flange Part 1R will also lock the L. Pattern constructs as well.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/MXCP51k.jpg[/url]


I am going to make the rear floor under the generators one continuous piece instead of two separate generator housings to take advantage of the locking effect as well.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/J7yoa7N.jpg[/url]


Once the Lucius Generators are assembled I plan to fill them with putty or some other weighty material as the Gen's. serve as counterweights on the original model.

[Blackadder]

The Void Generator Housings 2

Its a real pleasure to work on this model, all the angles are crisp and true; now of the warping so prevalent on older FW castings.

Below we have the base of the void generators, a continuous floor plate instead of two separate housings

[url]http://i.imgur.com/POrG4xq.jpg[/url]


The two interior pillars that lock the generator housings into the hull strangely distorted appearing in this image but they are not.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/JVjX8mk.jpg[/url]


The interior view of the pillars in place showing the close tolerance fit.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/guXxApF.jpg[/url]


The exterior with foot plates and mounting stringers in place ready to receive the housing inner walls.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/oqEm2vD.jpg[/url]

[Blackadder]

Void Generator Housings part 3

Yeah I know lots of pictures of virtually the same thing but anyone interested in copying this construction will probably appreciate the step by step process.

The rest of you will just have to bear with the redundancy.

I made a tracing of the inboard generator housing profile and squared off the corners. Due to the flexibility of the construction I took a guess and a gamble at the placement of the two dimensional pieces as it was impossible to glue, align and clamp at the same time. Actually having a helper at this time would be well er helpful.

Fortunately the alignment of the pieces were spot on so no need to cut the glue joint and redo.

Note in the profile image below the generators are parallel with the forward carapace but about a millimeter or two lower. This is as it should be to allow for the surface sheet styrene pieces which will be applied after the counterbalance filler material is installed.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/mB3tHwT.jpg[/url]


Here we see in this quarter view the slight step down of the housings compared to the main carapace; this is intentional.

Note also that the housing profile pieces appear to converge toward the front, that is because the center section is still not installed. I've decided to make a Lucius center piece and glue it in place rather than use the one that came with the kit for both versions.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/xFB7zG0.jpg[/url]


In this above shot you can see the construction is pretty much symmetrical even though at this stage the components are relatively flimsy.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/bn2B3OK.jpg[/url]


Heres a view of the bottom that I neglected to show in the previous post showing the aligning channels that keep the Generators centered on the model.

[url]http://i.imgur.com/6pn1koL.jpg[/url]