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  1. #11

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    All good stuff.

  2. #12

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    Do you have to use the poly cement? or will Loctite Super Glue work? Specifically [URL="http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_g_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-Gel-Control.htm"]this one[/URL]

  3. #13

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    Loving these tutorials so far!

    Keep them coming.

  4. #14

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    Do you have to use the poly cement? or will Loctite Super Glue work?
    Why are you asking? If it's an issue of money, I would argue that poly cement is significantly cheaper than superglue, especially gel superglues. If it's due to concerns over 'blobbing' poly cement across the model and ruining the detail, well, getting it right comes with practise, as well as with careful selection of the right poly cement - I would always recommend Contacta Professional as my poly cement of choice, especially with the precision needle. If it's because that brand of Loctite is all you have in at the moment, I'd recommend buying some poly cement.

    To explain my reasoning: it's a question of control, really.

    Poly cement takes a little time to set solidly, which gives you a lot of control when determining the final position of the various components in relation to each other.

    Superglue on the other hand, sets almost instantly, which means if you slip up, you have to cut the part free to reposition it. Now, that may work out just fine... but more frequently you'll find yourself damaging the parts as you separate them. This is especially true of very fine detail work like this.

    Now, the specific Loctite gel glue you have shown does have a longer drying time than most superglues... but it's still nothing like as user-friendly as poly cement. Now, I would agree that poly cement is definitely trickier than superglue, and you have to be more careful when using it, but I honestly would never use anything else on styrene unless I absolutely needed a very quick setting time - for example, there are times in my previous assault cannon tutorial ([url]http://www.lounge.belloflostsouls.net/showthread.php?44988-A-Beginner-s-Guide-Scratchbuilding-an-Assault-Cannon-with-Plasticard[/url]), where a quick set time is necessary at certain stages of the build.

    In short, no, I personally wouldn't use that specific superglue, but in a pinch you could probably make it work.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by YorkNecromancer; 05-30-2014 at 06:50 PM.
    AUT TACE AUT LOQUERE MELIORA SILENTIO

  5. #15
    Chapter-Master
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Isle of Man
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    12,045

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    I use Contacta, though I always remove the needle because it is inevitably blocked with something, usually before you even get it home
    Twelve monkeys, eleven hats. One monkey is sad.

  6. #16
    Veteran-Sergeant
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    The Sunny Beaches of Canada
    Posts
    246

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    That is amazing!!! I can't even get a set of toxin sacs on a guant without getting it stuck somewhere i don't want it to be.

  7. #17
    Battle-Brother
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    32

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    If it comes with a metal needle you can unclog it by burning the top with a cigarette lighter or something similar untill it lets out a small flame frome the nozzle of the needle.

    But be careful, and do it preferably outside the house or in a well ventilated area without smoke detectors.

  8. #18

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    im so doing this with my guard when i get to them.

  9. #19

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    Very nice!
    http://miteyheroes.blogspot.com/ - My 40k Blog: Adeptus Mechanicus, Imperial Guard Grots, Conversions, Battle Reports and more.

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