Magnetizing Movement Trays, a Tutorial

[YourSwordisMine]

I posted this on another Forum, but I thought I would post it here as well. This is my how too for magnetizing Movement Trays.



Once the tray is made, I then cut to size the sheets I use to line the trays. For my trays I use a product called Flex-Steel (I think? I cant find the labels anymore lol). It is not magnetic itself, but is ferrous enough that anything magnetic will stick to it. Its self-adhesive peel and stick so makes the process a lot easier.




Cut it to the inner size of the tray.




I like to align it to the front rail of the tray and then slowly work it down so that there are no air bubbles. Use another piece of plastic to help squeeze the sheet to the floor of the tray to make sure it has adhered thoroughly.

[YourSwordisMine]

For the magnetic bases, I use a .020 inch thickness magnetic sheet with peel and stick backing. For 20mm bases I cut strips 21mm wide




I then cut those strips into 21mm squares




Why 21mm by 21mm? This will make aligning the base onto the magnetic square a lot simpler as it gives you more room to play with. GW bases aren't exactly 20mm square, and can vary up or down in their size... Having that extra 1mm makes it a lot easier to get it stuck on.



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Now, you need to prep the bases themselves. If you are using slottabases, then you can skip this part. However, if you are using the normal flat top base, you need to add a spacer for the magnetic sheet to grip to in the middle. This way they stay stuck to each other far longer than without. I use just clippings of extra plastic, which needs to be at least 2mm thick. Less than 2mm and there wont be good adhesion. You don't want to use to thick or the bases wont sit flush. Glue the plastic spacer into the bottom of the base like so. I use a plastic weld type glue, but you can use superglue if you want. I prefer the welding as it will stay together longer.




When attaching the magnetic sheet, I like to strip the backing off and then lay the square on the table sticky side up. I then align the miniatures base and slowly lower it until it touches. I will then pick it up, pressing firmly in the middle to adhere to the spacer, then I will run my fingers around the edge to press it all together. I'll then sit it on the table and press firmly down along the base edge to make sure the seal is good.




Then trim with your hobby knife. I like to go at a slight angle so there is a bevel like /. This way there is less chance of the magnetic sheet catching at the join and ripping away from the base.



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Just finish up your unit, and you are done.




As you can see, it holds pretty well.




Now, this works great for plastics. Metal minis you would have to use Magnetic sheeting on both the bases and the trays themselves. I'd recommend using the thicker .030 inch on the trays as this will improve the magnetic bond as well. I also recommend that you do not touch the sticky backing with your fingers... skin contact really weakens the stickiness of the backing...

That is pretty much it. I hope this was informative and inspirational. If you have any other questions on the process, or if you have any suggestions, feel free to post them. Thanks for looking.

[Morgrim]

Where do you get the Flex-Steel from? I've looked for a similar product in Australia without much luck.

[YourSwordisMine]

Where do you get the Flex-Steel from? I've looked for a similar product in Australia without much luck.

I honestly don't remember... I'd actually purchased all the materials back in 2008 before my surgery, so my memory is not all that clear from that year... I want to say it was [URL="http://www.litko.net/categories/Miniature-Bases-%26-Bottoms/Magnetic-%26-Flex-Steel-Sheets/"]Litko[/URL], but I don't remember it being that damn expensive... I've found magnetic sheet on Amazon for a lot cheaper. I'm just not able to find the Flex Steel stuff elsewhere yet... But then, my search-fu is weak...

[razzeldazle]

Where do you get the Flex-Steel from? I've looked for a similar product in Australia without much luck.

Look around for Rubber Steel

[ReveredChaplainDrake]

I'm curious to know if this would work for things like Orcs, Chaos Warriors, or Lizardmen, who are all a lot bigger, bulkier and heavier than Dwarf models.

Nice to know that sheet-magnet-to-sheet-magnet actually works... for plastics. I saw a video on youtube that involved using small sheet steel squares. He took the same general principle and used it to store his whole army. ([url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-j2dy4PyHo4[/url])

It inspired me to try a storage method for my Tyranids in 40k. ([url]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTBCS73cLcE[/url]) I later repurposed the cases and magnetic boards for storing my Cryx. Sadly, Cryx can't do the same kind of sheet-magnet-to-sheet-magnet thing because PP models are too heavy (and often pewter), but it does offset a lot of the spindly bits that would break off if you tried using any kind of contact storage (foam, bubble wrap...). I just hope tournaments don't get ticked off that my models are a couple millimeters taller than they're supposed to be...

[Steven Farnaby]

I'm curious to know if this would work for things like Orcs, Chaos Warriors, or Lizardmen, who are all a lot bigger, bulkier and heavier than Dwarf models.

Yes, it does. I use a similar method (but with trays made from metal biscuit tins) and my Chaos Warriors stay right where they're supposed to. The plastic chaos warriors aren't so much heavier than plastic dwarves that the magnet's can't hold them.

[YourSwordisMine]

Sorry its taking me this long to reply. I've been a bit ill of late.

Yes, this method will work with any plastic miniatures, from 20mm bases, 25mm, 40mm and even Cavalry and Monstrous Cavalry. I was using the Dwarfs in this tutorial as it was what I currently had on my work table. My High Elf army is entirely magnetized as well, and I am slowly working on doing the same for my Warriors of Chaos.

One thing to keep in mind with this process. I am not using Sheet Magnet to Sheet Magnet. The sheeting I use for the trays is not magnetized itself but is ferrous so will hold magnets. Sheet Magnet to Sheet Magnet requires a bit more work to actually pull off. The Sheet Magnets sheets have polarity bands running through them. In order to make it work, you have to make sure you cut the squares properly so there isn't a conflict with the polarity. If you don't, the minis will not stick very well and will try to align with the polarity in the tray sheet. IMHO this is way more work than is needed and can be very frustrating indeed... Buy sheets of rubber steel for the trays. Yes, you can use metal trays, but I've tried this and ended up cutting myself on sharp burrs in the metal... Metal trays are just more work (cutting, bending, sanding) and hassle, that's why I went plastic. A thin sheet steel insert glued to the bottom of the tray could work as well. Just be careful with the cutting and sanding.

Now, this can also be modified to work with Metal minis, but requires a lot more work. Mainly, you will need to use thicker sheets, and requires the use of Sheet Magnet to Sheet Magnet method for the extra strength. But again, that adds another layer of complexity. Sheet Steel inserts to the tray and rare earth magnets glued to the bases would work better IMO. But that can lead to a higher cost.

Hope this input helps.