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  1. #11


    Quote Originally Posted by Levaticus View Post
    Like all of your projects i eagerly await to see the final product.
    Why? As with all of my projects I am so sorry to see their completion because the fun is over and then I just have to start over again on something else

    Can this be analogous to 'Postpartum depression?'

    Tools of the Trade:

    There has been a few questions regarding the amount of tools necessary to build my projects. I do have a lot of special tools that I need for work. I have been a mechanic all my adult life but to work on styrene models the material being so soft and malleable I find the most basic hand tools are sufficient to perform any of the work you see here.

    Aside from the tools pictured here I would add an X-acto razor saw and the small diameter X-acto knife with a goodly supply of the # 11 blades.

    When I get into the fine detail work I will break out my Jeweler's files as well but aside from that this is all I have used so far on the Thunderhawk.

    You can see that:

    A good quality combination square is essential.

    A good quality utility knife with a supply of sharp blades.

    A medium sized X-acto knife handle with #18 X-acto chisel blade. chisel.

    A wooden cutting board is essential as opposed to one of those plastic self healing cutting mats. That's just my preference but I'm a creature of habit.

    A 8" sized single cut file.

    Home made sanding blocks with coarse and 80 grit sandpaper adhered with double back tape

    A 6" scale graded in 1/64th inch and millimeters.

    A calculator

    Sharp Pencils

    I use Ambroid ProWeld thin plastic cement but as the brush is so clunky and thick and the bottle so easy to tip over I refill the Tamiya thin plastic cement bottle; it has a much more stable bottle and a very fine tipped brush. When the fluid level in the bottle gets too low I drop in a few glass marbles to raise the level.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  2. #12


    It's a large model when completed

  3. #13


    I hope to include more detail in my tinier version.

    Some thoughts on the choice of materials:


    I've seen styrene foam, cardboard, Foam filled posterboard, wood, plastic paneling, & etc. used and I made the mistake of using foam filled posterboard on two of my constructs; the Warhound Lucie and the Thunderhawk and I have to relate I have always regretted not using styrene sheets throughout the construction.

    The problem is getting everything to hold together, the different materials require different glues which usually are incompatible with the other surfaces. You spend more time, effort, cost of resins and epoxies plus hours of drying time and sticky residue on everything including fingers, clothing, furniture, computer keyboards, and whatnot than it would be to just bite the bullet, and spend a few more bucks and go full styrene for the whole project. I purchase my sheet styrene from commercial plastic wholesalers usually found in most industrial parks. I buy small 3 foot X 6 foot sheets for about 16 bucks each in 3 thicknesses 0.020, 0.030 and 0.040 because that's what my local supply stocks and they're only a half hour round trip from me. I purchase about three sheets a year give or take.

    I find it more economical to not use thicker styrene 0.060 and 0.080 except in special areas where excessive strength is required because it's too hard to cut with your standard utility knife and it's about 3 times more expensive than 2 sheets of thinner styrene sandwiched together but that's your choice.

    As a point of fact I only used 2,0 MM sheet styrene on the soles of my Warlord's foot pads and nowhere else in the entire construction.

    I do have quite a collection of 'Evergreen styrene strips, tubes, and rods, and i spend about $20 bucks a month on it including glue and paint which when you think about it is pretty cheap for the amount of recreational fun you get from scratch-building. Granted the initial outlay is daunting, probably two to three hundred dollars for everything you need as far as materials but if you keep up with maintaining your inventory that is the only major outlay you will have to make.

    In closing a couple of images of my plastic stock mounted with push pins on corrugated cardboard.

    Someday I'll find some cubicle wall dividers and do the set up properly. It saves a lot of time mounting your stock like this instead of rummaging through a couple hundred bags for the strip you need.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  4. #14


    Lucius Patten Imperator Titan 'Invictus'

    So with the blurb ten months ago about my proposal to begin an Imperator Titan I kinda fell flat on my face.

    First, finishing up the Thunderhawk monopolized a good deal of my time and learning how to best incorporate lighting in said Thunderhawk and my Warlord engaged yet more time. Then the Presidential election captured my attention almost to the exclusion of all things else. Finally I have returned to normalcy with what I consider a fabulous idea to make a hip and lower torso mount commensurate with an automaton of this magnitude.

    So we shall begin with the 'pelvis' which I found ready made on my local Lowes Building center where I purchased about six bucks worth of PVC pipe fittings A compression fitting Tee, a threaded coupling for the connection to the upper torso and two more for the hips connections.

    Naturally all this is quite utilitarian and looks exactly what it is, some pipe fittings and there are many titans that follow this procedure and leave the fittings as is. I intend to flesh out the assembly in styrene so as to hide all the piping that will only serve as an armature or skeleton for the model.

    In the image below you will get an idea of how much more robust this construct will be compared to the pelvis and hips of my Warlord.

    Where as Luteus Vexant has hips trunnions about an inch in diameter 'Invictus' shall have 1.5 inch axles.

    The beauty of this ready made construction technique is I shall be able pivot the waist and separate the model easily and hopefully allow the legs to be posed in a walking position as well as the spraddle-legged pose.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  5. #15


    Pelvis Engineering Compartment Floor:

    This time I'm going to do it right.

    Since I already have an idea of how large this titan will be and the fact that I do want a full interior I will be able to plan the layout as I build. None of the hit or miss second guessing I ran into on the Warlord titan

    Below are the two pieces of the Engineering base and Pelvis 82 MM square with two center holes for the waist shaft 21 MM diameter. The pieces are 2 MM thick styrene, one of the few time I work with such thick styrene because of the difficulty forming it and the danger of a knife blade slipping and cutting your hand. Extreme care should be exercised when cutting 2,0 MM styrene

    The plates slip over the Tee shaft and have a clearance of 1MM on either side to install the 1 MM side walls.

    Eventually there will be nothing showing of the Tee but the compression fittings that will serve as the hip joint housing and also allow the legs to be removed to re-position for posing.

    You might want to try building along with this thread because I intend to offer a step by step tutorial at least for the basic structure. How you detail the model is up to you but I'll show what I consider an Lucius Pattern Emperor titan should look like and you can build your walking turreted cathedral if you wish.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  6. #16


    Okay so I had some 3/8 inch box beams (Plastruct) laying about so I used them as spacers to thicken the construction and give it strength to boot. Then if I need to modify it later it will be easier to sand down instead of a solid block.

    This all seems pretty boring and I hope to get into the fancy stuff soon. Right now giving this heavy model (My warlord upper body weighs seven pounds) a strong basic structure is paramount.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  7. #17


    Basic Pelvis Block Complete:

    With thsi post the basic pelvis is complete. All that is left is applying the detail. I may bevel the corners and edges to add more pizzazz as I did on the Thunderhawk but all that is cosmetic.

    The Epic Imperator is very plain and you can let your imangination run wild with the amount of detail a 3 foot tall model requires. I have a good stock of City of Dead panels left over from my Warlord and I have a Fortress of Redemption to decorate the greaves if needs be.

    I used 0.040 thousandths styrene to sheath the pelvis and sanded the edges smooth; there's not really much to say about the step except to take great pains to make your angles square and true. Good enough is never "Good Enough"; that's my motto.

    A few extra pains taken now will save you a lot of grief later.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010


    Awesome! Another build with oodles of detail to gawk at. Front row seat booked!
    Blood Angels Army Project

  9. #19


    Thanks for the reply,

    Getting the right angle:

    I've wracked my brains trying to come up with a way to manufacture legs that were angled slightly akimbo (about 10%) so my Warmonger can be posed in the classic manner. Most of the pipe fitting models I have seen have the legs parallel to each other and it looks boxy and strange to the artistic eye. Never mind that parallel legs or even legs canted in to a pigeon toed stance are more amenable to a proper walking gate. For a static stance nothing compares to the rock solid look of a spraddled posture.

    This realized, getting the proper fittings is out. You have three choices; 90░, 45░, and 22.5░ and that's it, so to get the requisite 10░ I'll have to manufacture them.

    Here's my solution:

    I bought two caps and drilled and taped two 1/4 20 NC threads into the caps and short threaded coupling. I purposely made two different angles, one 10░ and one about 12░, as once the legs are built I can chose which angle I like better or maybe keep both for a bit of variation. I screwed in two 6 inch threaded rods that will serve as the thigh shafts, thin and strong and able to support the ten pounds or more of the upper body when finished.

    Next I slipped two styrene tubes over the threaded rods that will serve as the glue base for all the thigh shaft construction and ultimately the detail of the upper legs.

    Your pardon for the hiatus but I took a last minute vacation for the past few weeks to clear my head and tour Florida.
    Last edited by Blackadder; 03-04-2017 at 11:49 AM.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."

  10. #20


    Thanks for the reply,

    Two Steps Back:

    Found these dynomite compression couplings that are just made for this construct so scrap the rods and the sleeve for the nonce and work on cropping the length of the assembly.

    By cutting off the octagons I managed to crop the length by about 30 MM which makes the extreme width of the hips 12.5 inches (31.75 CM) compared to my Warlord's 10.5 inches (26.67 CM) which should be just right for a scale:180 to 200 ft (54 to 61 meter) tall Emperor Titan.
    "It is easier to deceive people than it is to convince them that they have been deceived."


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