Building a Game Table

[herigonz]

Apologies if this isn't the right forum. I play 40K and this is a project so I figured this was one of the better places.

So I've been watching YouTube videos and other random stuff online that has me wanting to build a small gaming table for playing at home. I'm pretty much set on just about all the aspects about it. I'm planning on building it with a plywood board and reinforce the underside. However I want to put polystyrene sheets (I think?) on the top layer for the actual models.

Therein lies my question. What kind/size of polystyrene should I look to get? About how thick? 1/4"? 3/8"? Honestly I'm not sure what sizes they come in. A second question, where is the best place to get it? I had been defaulting to maybe going to Michaels/Hobby Lobby but was thinking it might be cheaper at a hardware store (and also in bigger sizes).

So...does anybody have any suggestions? I assume it doesn't make sense to mail off for it either. I guess I don't mind using a bunch of smaller ones and attaching them to the plywood but I'd rather stick to larger sheets for sake of ease.

[Nachodragon]

At some point I will be building a table too, but I would probably veer away from polystyrene. What reason are you thinking for the polystyrene? I think the polystyrene would not hold up very well and with models being moved a lot it would be quickly wrecked.

I have been thinking about mounting felt or some other fabric on the top. Or even a non slip surface of some sort. You could also get a battle mat from GW or some other random vendor. I actually play some of my games with the battlemat over 2 MDF boards put together. Works fine, if only just a temporary solution.

[herigonz]

To be honest, I do like the ability to perhaps mold other parts of polystyrene and that is what they seemed to use in other guides. I didn't honestly consider MDF panels and can't seem to think of where I'd even look for that.

I do like the general "bounce" aspect of the polystyrene but having said that I do know of a gaming table at one of the local clubs that causes dice to just keep bouncing and rolling making the game go slightly longer. I had considered doing felt but a lot of felt seems to have things tug on it and it becomes messy. Maybe it is just bad felt we've used in the past.

I guess since it is my first table I don't mind using some cheaper materials and getting experience.

[Lunar Camel]

Building a table out of polystryene is an excellent choice. The board will be lighter and you can carve details into it (i.e. trenches, water features, craters, etc).

Pieces generally come in 4X8' sheets and are either 1/2" or 1" thick (get the thicker, it holds up more). Michaels or Hobby Lobby carry foam sheets but these a usually very flimsy, like packing styrofoam. Home Depot or Lowe's (except in California) carry high density polyurethane and are usually pink or blue depending on the type.

When I worked for GW this was what we used for all our gaming tables. Its light, easy to carve, and accepts paint and glue very easily. Use textered paint for a quick finish. As for damages, you really have to bang the crap out of it to break the paint and scuff the foam underneath. If you do, its really easy to fix. Just don't spray paint it as the propellant will eat the foam.

An idea is to build the frame like a box as you have outlined and allow the foam to sit inside the frame. This way you can change the foam table tops as you see fit. Build several tops for different environs and you have more options for your gaming.

Hope this helps.

[faolan]

My table is a skeleton of 1x2" with 7mm ply laid over it for 3 sides (the 4th is open and covered by a canvas drop cloth for easy access to the inner storage area). Over the top I've used 6 lengths of 1x2 for forming a bed for the sheet of plywood (also 7mm) that makes up the play surface. The bottom has a few offcuts that have been felted over for feet.

It's relatively light, quite strong (I've sat my fat 210lb arse up there without a problem), provides excellent storage, and can be used for anything.

*Edit*

Oh, for where to find the MDF - Home Depot and Lowes back in the States normally have it. You can quite easily build the whole table using MDF, as long as you use 3/4 inch minimum, without using normal timber supports (but they help). I went with plywood and timber because it was a damned sight cheaper, but as I live in Tasmania (Australia) these days, that may not be true for you back Stateside.

[Suttobs]

my table(s) are 4'x4' 1/2" mdf (basically a sheet cut in half) laid over a 2x2 frame. The frame is 2 squares, one 4x4, the other 32"x32" so the whole thing "slots" onto a card table. Since the legs fold up it stores nicely. I believe it was $25CDN for the card tables and $50CDN for the hardware at Home Depot.

If weight is an issue (mine are quite heavy) try 3/8" mdf or 1/4" plywood. for the frames use 1"x2" hardwood (maple or oak). This will take the price up quite a bit.

I hit the top with Kilz to seal it and at this point I can just add some sand and paint it. I have a realm of battle board that is usually laid on top, so I haven't really done that much.

[Drakkan Vael]

At some point I will be building a table too, but I would probably veer away from polystyrene. What reason are you thinking for the polystyrene? I think the polystyrene would not hold up very well and with models being moved a lot it would be quickly wrecked.

Polystyrene is by far the best surface to build your table from. Coated with PVA-Glue and Latexpaint, nothing will damage it, short of smashing an old fashion metal cybot in its surface.

Pieces generally come in 4X8' sheets and are either 1/2" or 1" thick (get the thicker, it holds up more).

This is a sound advice. do not take thicker material as it is easier to stack several thin layers above each other and carve out rivers, trenches and other structual features on layer after another before gluing them together. Massive blocks are difficult to hollow out for example (in Germany they get as thick as 5").

Coat the surface with Latex Paint (green, brown, grey - depends on the style of your table). The Latex is waterproof and protects the surface.
Apply PVA glue and flock or sand or whatever you choose as your primary gaming ground.
If you use just sand, try a layer of latex milk (liquid rubber latex), if you want additional protection. It can be painted over normally but it kept my last table save from harm vor six years weekly play. It is white at first but will turn transparent when dry. Use a Sponge to apply it thinly (for a whole table you probably need several as the latex is gonna dry on the sponge rendering it useless). Do not use a real sponge, just a piece of foam where you (hopefully) store your minis in or try a soft one out of the kitchen.

[Wolfshade]

I use 2 4'x3' foamex boards, covered with the citadel game mat (the old paper backed one from years ago) then with all the scenery and stuff as seperate builds, quite a lot of them are built on CDs for easy movement. I had to leave mine like that so I could move it around nicely.